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	<title>Comments on: A bit more golf club chatter</title>
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		<title>By: Richard Chen</title>
		<link>http://thedanplan.com/a-bit-more-golf-club-chatter/comment-page-1/#comment-45548</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Richard Chen]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Dec 2013 14:13:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thedanplan.com/?p=3155#comment-45548</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The existing 3-wood does not fit like shaft flex, and grip size are not right, but 3-woods are not that easy, as compared to the 4-wood.  Start with a 4-wood before tackling the 3-wood.  Some pros like Johnny Miller pretty much just stay with the 4-wood as a go to fairway wood, and even as a go to driver, and hardly use the 3-wood.  The 3-wood has to be hit very precisely, or it can pick up a fair amount of side curvature, as although it curves less than a driver, it flies higher so that it has more time in the air to curve.  A few years ago in the overtime of the Masters, a 3-wood was chosen for safety, and it curved as deep into the woods as any driver, causing a lost to second place.


A 4-wood is hit down somewhat with some hand lead at impact (not as much as irons, but definitely hands in front of the ball at impact) so that it does not need perfect lies.  The 3-wood is recommended to be used mostly with good lies.  With good lies, learning to hit the Driver off the deck promotes proper hand position at impact, precision of hitting, and proper control of clubface angle at impact (use an old driver in the beginning of hitting none-teed up balls with the driver, so as to not damage the regular driver.)  Once the 4-wood is mastered, the 3-wood becomes easier.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The existing 3-wood does not fit like shaft flex, and grip size are not right, but 3-woods are not that easy, as compared to the 4-wood.  Start with a 4-wood before tackling the 3-wood.  Some pros like Johnny Miller pretty much just stay with the 4-wood as a go to fairway wood, and even as a go to driver, and hardly use the 3-wood.  The 3-wood has to be hit very precisely, or it can pick up a fair amount of side curvature, as although it curves less than a driver, it flies higher so that it has more time in the air to curve.  A few years ago in the overtime of the Masters, a 3-wood was chosen for safety, and it curved as deep into the woods as any driver, causing a lost to second place.</p>
<p>A 4-wood is hit down somewhat with some hand lead at impact (not as much as irons, but definitely hands in front of the ball at impact) so that it does not need perfect lies.  The 3-wood is recommended to be used mostly with good lies.  With good lies, learning to hit the Driver off the deck promotes proper hand position at impact, precision of hitting, and proper control of clubface angle at impact (use an old driver in the beginning of hitting none-teed up balls with the driver, so as to not damage the regular driver.)  Once the 4-wood is mastered, the 3-wood becomes easier.</p>
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		<title>By: Shreds</title>
		<link>http://thedanplan.com/a-bit-more-golf-club-chatter/comment-page-1/#comment-45533</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Shreds]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Dec 2013 01:56:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thedanplan.com/?p=3155#comment-45533</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I know this is not too technical, but maybe it is because you do not practice the 3 wood enough on the range?]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I know this is not too technical, but maybe it is because you do not practice the 3 wood enough on the range?</p>
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